The Hebridean Way, Completed
Our last two days of walking the Hebridean Way were beautiful, with sunny weather, very little rain, and virtually no wind. Gorgeous, but time for yet another lesson. No wind equals lots of midges. The grass really does seem greener on the other side.
Our journey to the Aline Community Woodlands ended up being 14.4 miles. My previous statement that it would be 10 was my own error, my itinerary said 12.5. The beginning of our walk was on the road, but in the quiet of the early morning hours so low traffic. The first 3ish hours were so foggy we could barely see, which was of great benefit as we climbed elevation but could not see how much farther we had to go. We were on the “old road” for a good while, which was a wonderful for being off the asphalt and not being too wet. We walked among stunning scenery for the first time, what a treat!
Except, it got wet again. The next old road proved to be a new set of puddles, so we opted to walk on the road to stay dry. The problem with walking the roads is that there is rarely any shoulder and we have to step off when cars approach, no matter the terrain. It's hard walking in its own rite. Walking the road added 1.5 miles to our journey, but we agreed dry feet was worth the extension of miles.
It became rough. It's amazing how painful walking long distances on asphalt with gortex hiking shoes. The cushion is limited, which is great for walking in wet or muddy peat bogs (except when your feet sink below the ankle line), but not great for extended road walking with a 30 lb pack.
When we got to the Coach Park at the Aline Community Woodlands we were elated to find that camping is permitted from 6pm to 10am, and they have a room with a table in it and a bathroom that are always available. This meant we only had a few hours to wait before setting up our tents, and we only had to wait for the family who were using the indoor space to depart before we were sheltered from the cold.
When the family left they offered us the remaining egg-salad and ham-and-cheese sandwiches they hadn't eaten, a half of each for each of us. Another blessing!
We “washed” up (aka wet-wipe bath) and spent time reading before setting up the tents. There was still a breeze at that point, so we situated our tents next to the building to block the wind. We hung out, made dinner, and went to bed early, giving the other two people camping there their own space in the shelter.
We got up early and enjoyed coffee and breakfast in the shelter before packing up our sites. At this point there was no breeze. Zero. Zilch. The midges were abundant! Whelp, time to put on the midge nets we hadn't yet had to wear.
We only had 8.5 miles to go as we decided to stick to the road the whole way. For some reason, this day of walking seemed far more challenging than it should have. Or than we expected.
Our hosts for the night said we could arrive at any time, but we were so depleted of energy a mile and a half out we stopped at the only option for a bite, a little art galary with a snack bar. The reviews were mixed, with one guy describing the owner as being “out with the fairies.” What a precise description of the woman we met! We ordered the “traveler’s special,” an egg and bacon panini, and we were introduced to her various art modes and methods. We must have been there for 45 minutes or more. I was so exhausted, I struggled to be in the conversation. Brenna carried the conversational load for sure.
That being said, we had renewed energy to walk the final 1.5 miles, and we agreed that this would be our last walking day. Today would have been too much mohr walking and bogs, and we had a ferry to catch at 2pm, so we leaned into grace.
When we arrived at our lodging for the night, Kinloch House, there was little signage and we walked in the door calling out “hello” and we're greeted by a family - mother, father, son - all in their robes. They were very welcoming and apologetic for being unshowered at almost 1pm, and we told them we were in the same boat! They showed us our wonderful, grand, seating room downstairs as well as our room and bathroom upstairs. They offered us a tea tray, but we said we needed showers and a nap. Oh my goodness, that's what we needed, and we slept for over an hour!
When we awoke I felt so heavy, both in body and brain. It was like my entire self protested, unknowing we already made the decision to stop walking.
When we did awaken, we went down to the sitting room and read for a bit before Sandy, the host husband, came in and offered to run our laundry through the wash as well as a ride to see the Calanish Standing Stones.
Oh my goodness, the simple pleasures! I haven't had freshly laundered clothes since July 6th when Michelle and I washed a load at a guest house. (Fast forward to today: I keep smelling my shirt because it is so fresh and clean! What a delight!)
Sandy drove us to the standing stones, which had quite a few people at them. We took photos and walked around, and he said, “There's not a lot to do here. Have you ever been to a Brock?” We had no idea what he was talking about, so he drove us to the Carloway Brock, a prominent fortified dwelling from the Iron Age. Now this was fascinating! And there were only two others there!
Afterwards, Sandy told us we had 50 quid of credit at the Blue Man Seafood takeaway shack in his back yard (chef Sheamus is Sandy's son). We ate easily the best meal of our trip outside with a cold beer (compliments of Sandy)… until the midges got too bad.
We retreated to our room soon after, read, and went to sleep.
This morning we found our laundry in a basket and had a wonderful English breakfast prepared as we got ready to bus into town, then the ferry, and finally a bus to Inverness. Our B&B is adorable and a few blocks from the grocery store where we picked up a salad, olive bread, and cheese for dinner and will call it an early night again.
As we reflect on the Hebridean Way, we have concluded that it would be a wonderful journey by car, staying in hostels for a couple nights on various islands, taking walks or riding bikes around. The weather for our first 4 days of walking (plus our first day which was derailed by storm Floris) was brutal, but could have been beautiful without the wind. We also acknowledge that without any wind, it would be midge city. The reality is, though, the trail is not well marked in some places, and not a trail at all in the peat bogs.
The beauty for me, being on renewal leave rather than vacation, is that it was all the perfect place for me to contemplate, pray, and learn about myself. We often grow the most when outside our comfort zone, so this was the prime environment for spiritual and personal flourishing. (At least that is what I'm telling myself!) I certainly learned to embrace grace in a way beyond my norm!
I now head to the final stage of my leave, one filled with fun and exploration. I'll spend two nights in Inverness, exploring with Brenna tomorrow, and then I train to Edinburgh where I'll meet Al for the final week. So excited!
Dear Pastor Cathie Capp, What a blessing to see how God used even the challenges of the Hebridean Way to renew your spirit and teach you grace. 🙏 Wishing you joy and refreshment as you continue your journey in Inverness and Edinburgh!